Art & Design blog: Fashion

Hand-made lingerie, by Miss Crofton

Artist / designer:   Miss Crofton
Article author:   Charlotte Bradford
Published:   Thu, 3 Sep 2015

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Photographer: Carly Scott. Model: Mathilde Warnier

Founded by Georgia Campbell, Miss Crofton is a London based underwear brand producing fresh & innovative lingerie. Each piece is hand made and either part of a limited run or a one off bespoke design. Earning a reputation among influential women & modern makers, the new collection is highly anticipated.

At what age did you start to take an interest in the field you work in?

I got my first bra when I was about 12 and I was completely in love with it. It had a small floral print and buttoned at the front with two poppy buttons. A couple of years later, while doing my GCSE art, I got completely obsessed with lace and nearly all my project involved lace some way or another. I believe I’ve always had a passion for fine fabrics.

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Photographer: Carly Scott. Model: Mathilde Warnier

What are your top three favourite songs?

This totally depends on what mood I’m in. Today was a day for Into the Void by Black Sabbath but yesterday the right song for my mood was Horizon Variations by Max Richter. An all time favourite has to be Graceland by Paul Simon because it reminds me of being a kid.

What is your favourite London boutique and why?

Luna & Curious in Shoreditch. They have such a great selection of stylish goodies.

Name three creatives who have inspired you over the past 10 years? 

I know it’s cheesy but my mother. She runs a company in Mallorca Spain, Gaia Natural, that makes natural skin care products. We talk almost every day on Skype and she gives me great business advice and has endless enthusiasm for everything.

I really admire the way London based designer Kate Sheridan runs her business. She has a real knack for it. I often look up to her for guidance.

I’m really inspired by the designer Simone Rocha at the moment. Her designs are so incredible and dreamy.

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Photographer: Carly Scott. Model: Mathilde Warnier

Have you got any exciting commissions/events coming up in the near future?

I’m shooting in an exciting location with photographer Katie Silvester in the next two weeks. We met when she shot me for the Urban Outfitters blog and we wanted to work together straight away.

If you weren’t involved in the creative industry what other career path would you have chosen?

I’m always really envious of people who work outdoors so maybe a gardener or farmer.

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Photographer: Duncan Thornley

Miss Crofton has a well established stall on Broadway Market, East London, every Saturday 9-5. For further information please visit their website misscrofton.com

XETH interviews Miles Chinn of akkadenim

Artist / designer:   AKKA Denim
Article author:   Charlotte Bradford
Published:   Fri, 24 Jul 2015

 

akkadenim font & logoakkadenim is the world’s first brand created solely to support children’s charities. Miles Chinn, Chief Vision Officer & Founder, has worked in the manufacturing industry for the last twenty years and ‘seeks to integrate a sense of consciousness within the fashion industry by going against institutions perpetuating greed in society’*.  akkadenim proudly partners with Sahasra Deepika in India and Dara Children’s Trust in Cambodia supporting disadvantaged children through education opportunities. XETH recently spoke with Mr Chinn to hear more about his ideas and inspiration behind the fashion label and what creative projects they are currently working on.

At what age did you start to take an interest in the field you work in?

From a young age of approx eight years old I began to notice how one’s appearance can dramatically change someone’s opinion of you indeed even change the direction of their intended conversation. I starting working in global fashion twenty years ago and was first to develope China’s fashion and retail industries in 1998 working with multiple global Plc corporations. It was at the same time I began to see how soulless multi-national corportions can be irrespective of their shiny inviting global marketing campaigns thus my interest in the need for change albeit philanthropy began to take hold and started changing my creative process namely akkadenim.

akkadenim SS14 hand quilted salesbook

Copyright: akkadenim

Do you listen to music when working? If so, what?

Good question and yes even as I type. I suspect my work process regards music is back to front however as I don’t listen to music when I am designing or developing a new concept as there are several concepts always ready to go and queued up in my mind. I listen to music when I am piecing together a corporate business proposal say bringing together multiple companies across multiple countries. If I can’t see in my mind’s eye the navigational operational route map for all companies to partner together for the benefit of all involved then I will go for a walk sit somewhere alone within nature and listen to deep house 1994 – 1998 and then all is revealed within minutes.

akkadenim laser etched wear what you feel feel what you wear (world first)

Copyright: akkadenim

Name three creatives who have inspired you over the past 10 years?

My business partner of 17 years Hill Law CEO or as I call him The King Of Denim. I have witnessed Hill develope, sample and deliver an entire collection in 17 days whereas it would take a full team from a well known High St retailer six months. My role as Chief Vision Officer is complex and Hill allows me total creative freedom as my sounding board. I could say to Hill I want to create a website offering ultra-violet broccoli supporting space travel and he would no doubt say ” sure let’s do it however allow me to ensure it is profitable “.

Secondly a huge inspiration to me over the years is Hector Pottie the world’s number one typographist and graphic designer or as I call him Hector Hector Design Director HHDD. Hector’s work is a master class in minimalism yet laced with hidden cognitive messages. Hector created the akka icon, a classic example of his approach to simplicity yet the akka icon when viewed for the first time is instantly imprinted on one’s sub-conscious.

Finally, Ben Banks, CEO of oki-ni has always inspired me. It was Ben that gave me my first job in fashion twenty years ago as brand manager for Katherine Hamnett. I was a very troublesome employee as I hadn’t learnt how to process my relentless creative drive. I will always meet Ben when launching a new global concept such as I did with akkadenim launching exclusively on oki-ni.com. Ben posseses that most rare of talents being highly creative yet equally corporate representing the world’s best known designers.

Have you got any exciting projects coming up in the near future ?

Dara Childrens Trust Cambodia

Copyright: Marijke Timmers, Dara Children’s Trust founder

akkadenim proudly partners with Dara Children’s Trust in Cambodia with the truly inspirational founder Marijke Timmers addressing the much needed educational issues in Cambodia specifically Andong region to build new schools as from 2016. akkadenim is currently competing in the Denim World Championships with our world first record breaking 100 % hand woven interlaced 32 oz Tibetan selvage denim and I am equally honoured to be a judge for the Denim World Championships. We are also working hard on akkakoncept.com being the world’s first philanthropic m-tail and e-tail platform supporting our children’s charity partners.

Who would be your ideal client?

His Imperial Emperor of Japan Akihito as I have always been fascinated by the unparalleled stalwart culture of Japan. When akkadenim launched in 2014 we collaborated with legendary Denim Master Martin Ksohoh and Denim Grand Master Sakamoto being the world’s oldest denim family. Indeed, it was the first time since 1921 the Sakamoto family had permitted their family name associated to a denim product outside of Japan. To create a denim kimono supporting children’s charities for Emperor Akihito would be the ultimate honour.

If you weren’t working in this field what other career would you have chosen?

Not sure if it can be classified as a career more of a spiritual calling however over the years I have spent a lot of time in monasteries across Asia more often than not meditating and recharging thus hidden away deep in a jungle albeit an isolated temple. If I hadn’t chosen a career in global fashion as a Chief Vision Officer I would happily embrace my calling as a Buddist monk helping others during their time of need.

akkadenim digital icon

Copyright: akkadenim

For more details about the brand, please visit their twitter page https://twitter.com/akkadenim

*Author – Deap Khambay . Website – www.ethicalvalue.com

 

Performance sportswear, by Lexie Sport

Artist / designer:   Lexie Sport
Article author:   Ricky Thakrar
Published:   Wed, 5 Sep 2012

For our debut Art & Design blog article, we filmed a video interview with Lily Rice, founder of Lexie Sport.  A transcript of the interview is also available, beneath the video.

“In terms of the fashion and the look, we really focus on a geometric, Art Deco look. The origins of women’s sportswear really started around that period and the lines are something that aren’t
generally seen in sportswear so it really separates us from the competition.

I think my favourite pieces in the collection are probably the Mae vest and the Veronica short. I really like the silver panel and I think metallics is going to be something that’s fed through future collections. The detailing on the vest at the back is something I’m really keen on as well. It’s the surprising details, I think, make us really different.

The fabrics we use are mostly really soft, stretchy fabrics. We’ve got lycras, but we’ve also got a lot of viscose as well so they’re very breathable. Layering is something that I personally love, so by using the really light fabrics it makes layering really easy.

Designing performance sportswear adds an extra element to design in terms of thinking about ergonomics as well as aesthetics. You have to be really careful that the visual performance doesn’t overtake the performance of the garments; so seam placement, garment lengths… and one of the things we really concentrate on is the waistband on the shorts and trousers – so it’s angled, and really designed for a woman’s hips, rather than the straight cut of a man.

We just secured our first stockists, which is really exciting. We’re going to be working with Young British Designers which is an online site. We’ve also taken part in a BBC show, so that was a great experience and something that’s really going to help the brand.

It’s very important to me that as a younger-target audience brand, we’re feeding a good message – and that can be from the models we use, to the locations and the sports we portray. And I’m hoping that as well as changing women’s wardrobes, it will encourage a lot more women to get involved in sport – those that have been put off by really clingy, stretchy, pink sportswear might be a bit more keen now.”

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